Weekender Bag Tips and Modifications - Part 1 - Planning and Piecing

There are so many blog posts out there about the Amy Butler Weekender Bag pattern. When I decided to make my first one two years ago, I was overwhelmed by all of the blog posts and finally just decided to work through modifications on my own. I am on my third bag joining up with the Weekender Bag Sew Along hosted by Sewlux and Happy Little Cottage, and I am trying some new techniques. Chrissy from Sewlux has a ton of really great tips on her blog and has made some stellar bags.

I tend to use my blog to earmark how I make things so that I can remember down the line. I made lengthy handwritten notes with my first bag and typed them up into a lengthy blog post. It was pretty helpful for the second bag I made and to reference this time around as well. But I also blog to give more detailed info and everything in one spot for people who are interested. If you are on Instagram, you can take a peek at the hashtag where I posted the evolution of each bag #threeowlsweekenderbag and the 2016 Weekender Bag Sew Along hashtag where there are so many creative people joining to to make this crazy bag that allows for a million modifications - #wbsa2016. I am moving way ahead due to multiple obligations next month as well as needing to clear out the piles of cut pieces and supplies.

First Weekender Bag 

It was pretty ridiculous. All those 1/2" hexies and multiple quilt blocks.Here it is:

I am making this third bag for my oldest daughter and I wanted to make something cool, but not as complex. I also wanted to try and use duck canvas behind batting rather than my Peltex behind batting method.

Planning:

All Cotton + Steel fabrics - mostly Tokyo train ride and some Melody Miller

Piping and straps - c+s navy sprinkle counting stars

NOTE ABOUT PIPING AND STRAPS:

I buy one yard to make bias cut piping for this bag with some leftover, but it makes nice long strips that have less joins. Since I used the same fabric for straps, I bought 1.5 yards. See below for cutting straps.

Piping made using piping foot not the Steam A Seam method this time (takes forever!)

I think I would also be willing to try glue basting with Elmer's. I love Elmer's Glue Stick for sewing so much that I buy it in bulk.

Quilted 1/4"ish with batting on entire exterior

Duck canvas behind batting for main panels, top panels, bottom panel

Top panel and main panels: Quilted but not pieced 

Main Panels:

No piecing

Main panel 1 - Melody Miller Bees

Main panel 2 - Tokyo Train Ride

Straps:

Lengthened 1.25" x 52" finished with 1.25" webbing inserted 

I cut the strips WOF and joined them with a diagonal seam

This is .25" narrower than my previous straps and I like it just as well.

Exterior Pockets:

No canvas - batting only

I don't think it is necessary and would be pretty bulky.

Main Pockets:

No canvas - batting only

Main pocket 1- Tokyo train ride canvas scene - no piecingMain pocket 2 - 2" finished patchwork

End Pockets:

No canvas - batting only

End pocket-mustard mustang

End pocket - first initial "R" using reduced size Spell it With Moda pattern (pic below)

Interior:

Interfaced with shape flex SF101Lined slip pocket on one side - using main pocket panel pattern piece, stitched down middle to make two slots. Cut one exterior and one lining, stitch across the top RST, turn right sides out and topstitch, baste to lining, stitch down the middle to make two slots.

Inset pocket on other side with 9" zipper (see below for dimensions)

Bottom exterior:

Navy duck canvasOne layer of Peltex behind duck canvas bottom 1/2" smaller all around - both quilted to batting 

MAYBE two layers of Peltex to insert in bottom - adhere in place after bag exterior is completed using spray adhesive (because I am lazy and don't want to use the interfacing method. I'm also not convinced that this particular bag version needs it with the Peltex, canvas, and batting already on bottom.)

False bottom:

Same as pattern

Lining:

Hand stitched in same as pattern

Exterior zipper:

Separating Sport Zipper tacked on the separating end - it is hard to find 30" non-separating zippers

Prepping:

Most of the time when I make something, I like to bounce around between cutting and sewing. I don't really like to do that with the Weekender Bag though. I like to cut all of the pieces, then prep them, quilt, assemble.

I knew I wanted to use a lot of Tokyo Train Ride by Sarah Watts. I bought a lot of it and was gifted a nice selection of it, and my daughter loves it. I pulled a bunch of fabric and gathered supplies to start editing with her input. I also grabbed my bag so I could measure my interior zip pocket placement. I made my piping and straps before I did anything else.

Straps:

I attached using the same method I previously used and with webbing inserted instead of Peltex. I mark the top line as the pattern states and I sew across there and edgestitch all down the length of the straps on both sides and then sew an X at the top attachment even more stability. I usually just eyeball the X box, but using chalk to mark probably made for a better result.

Interior pockets:

Here are the particulars if you want a 9" pocket as well. So many tutorials for zipper pockets. I like this one.

Cut two rectangles 10.75" W x 7" H (not super deep but deep enough to fit some stuff without it getting lost).

Centered 3.5" from the top of the lining. Draw 1/2" tall rectangle 1" down and 3/4" in on each side.

Here is a pic of my pockets in very bad late night lighting:

Pieced main pockets:

I really like to use wax paper or freezer paper to help me plan out how much of what I need and what it looks like prior to stitching, especially since the pocket is angled. I was thinking 2" patchwork so I mocked it up on freezer paper. When I made my hexie pocket previously, I used wax paper cut the shape of the pocket to see how much to keep adding.

I know it took a few minutes, but by mocking up my patchwork pocket on freezer paper, I was able to quickly see how my pocket panel would look with mini charms centered and how to cheat around the edges that will be mostly hidden by the 1/2" seam allowance. 

Here is how I did it if you are interested in not using squares for the sides that will be covered:

(40) 2.5" squares - 8 across x 5 down
On each side: (2) 2.5" T x 1.5" W strips at the bottom 

and (1) 7" T x 1.5" W strip at the top (only about 6.5" needed so trimmed down after attaching). 

I pieced the squares first and then added the mishmash scrap on the sides after. The long strips will almost all be hidden in the seam allowance. 

(These measurements have some overage on all sides to quilt and then trim to size.) 

Quilting panels and then cutting to size - or not:

I couldn't easily go bigger on the size of the quilted panels when I did the method with 1/2" smaller Peltex behind the batting and I didn't do that on most of my panels here - I just cut my main panels with the pattern piece, basted, quilted, trimmed. I used my walking foot with the presser foot pressure super low and occasionally stitched from the opposite direction.

It might be a good idea to make the panels bigger, quilt, then cut down, because it can shrink up, but it worked fine three times, but please don't try it my way and get mad if it doesn't work - do at your own risk and stop if it is warping badly. LOL

I definitely cut using the top panel pattern piece and then quilted. The sheer amount of waste in my aqua Farmdale Blossoms with the first bag would have made me cry. I also fussy cut the Tokyo Train Ride print I used for this bag and it was easier to cut first. You have to be SO careful about basting this evenly though. I cut my batting and canvas nicely and used my 24" long acrylic ruler to help and spray basted it without a lot of stretching.

Quilting: 

I did my Ish Quilting - not exact. I love the texture, but densely quilting will add a million pounds to the weight of the bag. You can also see more of the straps and piping across the top of the main pocket as well.

End pocket:

I really love how this block turned out! My daughter LOVES sloths, but who doesn't?

Bottom Panel:

I wanted to sandwich the Peltex (cut 1" smaller, so 1/2" smaller all around so it doesn't get in the seams during bag construction). I layered canvas, then the Peltex with basting spray, then batting.

I'd also like to say that I added feet to the bottom of my first bag and it was a mistake. They weren't big enough and it was stupid and pointless, and I am still mad at myself. If you do it, buy some good size feet.

Ok, in my next post I will have my piping corner cheat that helped me avoid having my corners eaten in the bottom curves during assembly and some actual assembly tricks I figured out on this bag for an overall better effect. Well, for me anyway. There is no right or wrong, just what works best for each individual person. I hope to have that post up pretty soon. My bag exterior is done and just needs a lining. :)

Part 2

Omakase Quilting, Ish Quilting, and No Fabric Scrap Left Behind

I'll never catch up on all the blog posts I have neglected to make in the past year, but I can give you a little snapshot of a few things. I guess I am coming to terms with who I am as a quilter right now and that is basically temperamental. I had an epiphany several months ago about how to describe my quilting philosophy. I shared it with Ellyn during Crafty Tuesday at her house some time ago and she said I should write a blog post. Well, I am finally doing it; I am apparently as temperamental about blogging as I am about quilting.

Have you heard about omakase dining in Japanese restaurants? It is basically chef's choice where the diner trusts the chef to make an amazing dish of his or her choice and the chef works to be innovative and make something delicious. This sums up how I feel about quilting. I have a really hard time with actual orders; it's not that I can't do it, I just want to sew what I want to sew, often when I am inspired to sew it. I try really hard to make something people will love and an item they have expressed they want or that I think they need (ha), I just don't want them to tell me exactly how to do it. I think we both win - I get to create something innovative on my terms and they get a handmade item that they love. I think it is very frustrating for a lot of people who want me to make something for them, but I can't summon the energy to feel bad about it. Omakase pretty well sums up my quilting philosophy.

Some Omakase gifts I have given:

 
Extra Large Patchwork Pouch with a View.

 A Supernaturalish teeny patchwork sew together bag using the method here.

A miniature version of my Tiny Scrappy Circle Mini.

Which leads me to my current quilting style. I'm calling it "Ish Quilting" - 1/4"ish, straightish, wavyish, stitch-in-the-ditchish, decentish. What it really means is that I am setting aside my typical OCD need for perfection. It is so liberating. Omakase me is giving people Ish Quilted items.

Here is an example a placemat I gifted myself with some Ish Quilting - those quilt lines are all over the place and I don't care. I just posted about it in my post about glue basting binding with Elmer's glue stick.

I am also eyeball deep into my No Fabric Scrap Left Behind project that I have posted about quite a lot on Instagram - check out the #nofabricscrapleftbehind hashtag, but not much here (maybe at all? Why don't I know this?). So, people are getting omakase, ish quilted, scrapbusting items. You can see from the pics above that I like sewing my bitty scraps.

Scrappy, omakase, ish quilted gifts. I am way into quilt as you go potholders right now. Check out Tara Rebman's Quilt As You Go Patchwork Bags class on Craftsy. It will make you want to dig out your scrap bin.

My self imposed rule with the pot holder project was to only use what I pulled out of some shoeboxes full of unprocessed scraps, It meant less editing than I usually do - less matchy matchy. It was so much fun and so fast. Even stopping to make the bias binding strips, these are <1 hour potholders. It's so messy though.

And finally, here are some scraps I have been processing and creating with - this is where I have been for months.

Machine Binding Using Elmer's Glue Stick

This is a super quick and not super pretty how-to on using plain old Elmer's Glue Stick (washable) to temporary tack quilt binding down for machine quilting. I've seen tutorials on using Elmer's with a fine tip applicator, but I don't have that, so when I was trying to quickly bind my daughter's Meadow quilt in time for her birthday, I didn't want to fuss with Wonder Clips and missing bits on the back. So I grabbed the glue stick.

I was able to glue down the entire 84" x 96" Meadow quilt binding using this method in minutes and there were no spots on the back that I had to go back and stitch over again. I've been using it to tack down the binding on fiddly curved binding for potholders and even a placemat. I took a few pics while I bound my placemat last night for anyone interested in my method. I apologize in advance for my scorched ironing board.

Here is the Meadow quilt binding:

Machine stitch binding to the front and then press the binding seam away from the quilt top. I do this with all of my binding because it helps the fabric flip to the back.

Turn the quilt over to the back side and apply a line of glue stick along the raw edge of the quilt back, making sure to stay behind the seam line. Doing it behind the seam line will also make it easier if you want to hand stitch the binding using this method because glue can make the fabric stiff and harder to hand sew through.

My glue stick is purple when wet so it's really easy to see where you applied, but clear works too. Work in shorter sections so the glue doesn't dry before you press down the binding. I work in approximately 8" sections. (I made that up. I don't know how big the sections are, but probably less than 12")

Fold binding down in the section you glued so that it covers the binding seam line by a little less than 1/8" or 1/8". It's really hard to take pics of this by myself so it doesn't look perfect, but you get the idea.

Set the binding with your hot iron. Work around the perimeter.

Mitered corners - glue all the way to the corner of the backing, then just press down.

Add a bit of glue to the corner fabric that will fold down over the binding on the side you just finished, add glue to a section of the quilt backing on the next side, then fold down and press as you did previously. Try to match the corner folds for a perfect miter.

Turn the quilt back over to the front and stitch in the ditch on the front, catching the back binding. I didn't do my best work with this last night because I used 2.5" binding which is wider than my usual preferred 2.25" binding (2.5" wide binding gives me more poof in the front and obscures the ditch somewhat, in my opinion. I also used a contrasting thread color, and sew in a cave so I couldn't see the ditch. And it's a placemat, not a special piece. Haha. Anyway, I set my machine stitch length to 3 and use my walking foot.

Close up of the front of the finished piece:

Close up of the back:

Full placemat front and back:

Also a view of my "ish quilting" - 1/4"ish, straightish, good enough.

Adding a Zipper Pocket to The Everyday Hipster Bag

If you are interested in adding an inset zipper pocket to the exterior back or interior of your Everyday Hipster Bag (pattern available here), here are the pocket dimensions. I am not going to do a full tutorial on how to make an interior zipper pocket as there are so many out there. I really like this tutorial from U-Handbag.

Note: I didn't take the time to properly center my zipper pocket or place it lower than the top edge of the bag - take the time to do that.

Materials Needed:

6" zipper or longer

(2) 6" squares of fabric for the pockets

(1) interfacing for one main panel

(1) 6" square of interfacing

(1) 2" x 6" rectangle of interfacing

Interfacing:
1. Add interfacing to the wrong side of the main pocket panel that you will be using to install the zipper pocket. This will help support the weight of the zip pocket.
2. Add 6" square of interfacing to the wrong side of one pocket panel (it will be the front of the zipper pocket and less visible)
3. Add 2" x 6" rectangle of interfacing to the top back of the zipper pocket for additional stability.

Zipper placement:
1. Draw rectangle for zipper placement on the back of the interfaced square.
Start 1" down from the top and 3/4" in on each side.
Your rectangle will be 1/2" tall with a line in the center and notches to trim.

Pocket panel attachment (see linked tutorial above for good pictures of this step):
1. Center pocket panel with drawn rectangle on main panel
I lined my pocket panel with the top of the main panel, but it is really best to reduce bulk and drop the pocket 1/2"-1" from the top (don't slap your zipper pocket together like I did)
2. Pin in place and stitch around the perimeter of the rectangle you drew.
3. Cut the center line you drew inside your rectangle and snip the notches with scissors. Be very careful to cut close to the corners, but do not cut your stitches.
4. Pull attached pocket panel through through the opening you made.
5. Press well, rolling lining to the lining side.

Install zipper:
1. Put zipper behind the opening - I like to use Wonder Tape to hold it in place.
2. Topstitch around perimeter of your opening to secure your zipper.
3. Trim excess zipper tape.

Attach second zipper pocket panel:
Attach the pocket panels together with right sides together.
Stitch around entire perimeter of the pocket panels with 1/4" seam allowance
Make sure to move the main panel out of the way as you stitch the pocket panels.

And now you have a pocket for your bag. (This one works really well even though it is off center. Oh well, it's for me anyway.)

The Everyday Hipster Bag Pattern Available Now

I've been buried in house organization for the past several months and it has taken a hit to my creative energy, but I'm back to more sewing and less organizing. To be honest, it's starting to look like I didn't do much organizing which leads me to believe that it's a full time job around here. But either way, I am back to a creative place and have several ideas in the works.

First up, I have a new bag pattern available to purchase called The Everyday Hipster. You can find it on Payhip and Etsy. I've had so much fun making this bag for everyone. While I love a big structured bag as much as the next person, I really like a small, super lightweight crossbody bag for traveling and events, or those times when I just don't feel like keeping track of a purse.

The Everyday Hipster is just the right size to hold a small wallet, phone (fits my iPhone 6 with plenty of room to spare), and keys. Constructed with a simple Velcro flap closure and exterior slip pocket, this pattern is a great start for novice bag makers. No zippers! You can easily add a zip pocket to the exterior or interior (blog post to follow with pocket dimensions) or swap out the Velcro for a snap. If you use a heavier weight fabric, no interfacing is needed and the bag can be whipped up in under an hour.

Pattern instructions include a child length strap, so this bag is perfect for all ages. I think I will make a bunch as party favors for my daughter's next birthday party.

Approximate Dimensions:

6" W x 1" D x 7" H

Adult Handle Drop 22"

Children's Handle Drop 18"

I've been fortunate to have a great bunch of testers, some people made multiple bags. Take a peek at Instagram #everydayhipsterbag  to see bags. 

Ellyn of Ellyn's Place, made three bags! Ellyn is my favorite tester; she always give valuable feedback, she is so fast, and as a pattern writer and prolific maker she has a great eye. Check out Ellyn's post with pics of all the bags she made. 

Photo courtesy of Ellyn's Place.

Debbie, from Happy Little Cottage, also tested the Everyday Hipster and her version is so cute. She added a pocket to the front flap, patchwork, and mason jar thread sketching. Check out her blog post with details. 

Photo courtesy of Happy Little Cottage.

I've loved seeing all of the fabulous bags made by testers:

Photo courtesy of @twinssquared.

Photo courtesy of @sewologist.

Photo courtesy of Belloquacity.

Photos courtesy of @hollowglen. 

Photo courtesy of @roseandodin.

Photo courtesy of @elletaylor7

Various versions of the Everyday Hipster Bags I have made:

And a child size version for E: