Omakase Quilting, Ish Quilting, and No Fabric Scrap Left Behind

I'll never catch up on all the blog posts I have neglected to make in the past year, but I can give you a little snapshot of a few things. I guess I am coming to terms with who I am as a quilter right now and that is basically temperamental. I had an epiphany several months ago about how to describe my quilting philosophy. I shared it with Ellyn during Crafty Tuesday at her house some time ago and she said I should write a blog post. Well, I am finally doing it; I am apparently as temperamental about blogging as I am about quilting.

Have you heard about omakase dining in Japanese restaurants? It is basically chef's choice where the diner trusts the chef to make an amazing dish of his or her choice and the chef works to be innovative and make something delicious. This sums up how I feel about quilting. I have a really hard time with actual orders; it's not that I can't do it, I just want to sew what I want to sew, often when I am inspired to sew it. I try really hard to make something people will love and an item they have expressed they want or that I think they need (ha), I just don't want them to tell me exactly how to do it. I think we both win - I get to create something innovative on my terms and they get a handmade item that they love. I think it is very frustrating for a lot of people who want me to make something for them, but I can't summon the energy to feel bad about it. Omakase pretty well sums up my quilting philosophy.

Some Omakase gifts I have given:

 
Extra Large Patchwork Pouch with a View.

 A Supernaturalish teeny patchwork sew together bag using the method here.

A miniature version of my Tiny Scrappy Circle Mini.

Which leads me to my current quilting style. I'm calling it "Ish Quilting" - 1/4"ish, straightish, wavyish, stitch-in-the-ditchish, decentish. What it really means is that I am setting aside my typical OCD need for perfection. It is so liberating. Omakase me is giving people Ish Quilted items.

Here is an example a placemat I gifted myself with some Ish Quilting - those quilt lines are all over the place and I don't care. I just posted about it in my post about glue basting binding with Elmer's glue stick.

I am also eyeball deep into my No Fabric Scrap Left Behind project that I have posted about quite a lot on Instagram - check out the #nofabricscrapleftbehind hashtag, but not much here (maybe at all? Why don't I know this?). So, people are getting omakase, ish quilted, scrapbusting items. You can see from the pics above that I like sewing my bitty scraps.

Scrappy, omakase, ish quilted gifts. I am way into quilt as you go potholders right now. Check out Tara Rebman's Quilt As You Go Patchwork Bags class on Craftsy. It will make you want to dig out your scrap bin.

My self imposed rule with the pot holder project was to only use what I pulled out of some shoeboxes full of unprocessed scraps, It meant less editing than I usually do - less matchy matchy. It was so much fun and so fast. Even stopping to make the bias binding strips, these are <1 hour potholders. It's so messy though.

And finally, here are some scraps I have been processing and creating with - this is where I have been for months.

Machine Binding Using Elmer's Glue Stick

This is a super quick and not super pretty how-to on using plain old Elmer's Glue Stick (washable) to temporary tack quilt binding down for machine quilting. I've seen tutorials on using Elmer's with a fine tip applicator, but I don't have that, so when I was trying to quickly bind my daughter's Meadow quilt in time for her birthday, I didn't want to fuss with Wonder Clips and missing bits on the back. So I grabbed the glue stick.

I was able to glue down the entire 84" x 96" Meadow quilt binding using this method in minutes and there were no spots on the back that I had to go back and stitch over again. I've been using it to tack down the binding on fiddly curved binding for potholders and even a placemat. I took a few pics while I bound my placemat last night for anyone interested in my method. I apologize in advance for my scorched ironing board.

Here is the Meadow quilt binding:

Machine stitch binding to the front and then press the binding seam away from the quilt top. I do this with all of my binding because it helps the fabric flip to the back.

Turn the quilt over to the back side and apply a line of glue stick along the raw edge of the quilt back, making sure to stay behind the seam line. Doing it behind the seam line will also make it easier if you want to hand stitch the binding using this method because glue can make the fabric stiff and harder to hand sew through.

My glue stick is purple when wet so it's really easy to see where you applied, but clear works too. Work in shorter sections so the glue doesn't dry before you press down the binding. I work in approximately 8" sections. (I made that up. I don't know how big the sections are, but probably less than 12")

Fold binding down in the section you glued so that it covers the binding seam line by a little less than 1/8" or 1/8". It's really hard to take pics of this by myself so it doesn't look perfect, but you get the idea.

Set the binding with your hot iron. Work around the perimeter.

Mitered corners - glue all the way to the corner of the backing, then just press down.

Add a bit of glue to the corner fabric that will fold down over the binding on the side you just finished, add glue to a section of the quilt backing on the next side, then fold down and press as you did previously. Try to match the corner folds for a perfect miter.

Turn the quilt back over to the front and stitch in the ditch on the front, catching the back binding. I didn't do my best work with this last night because I used 2.5" binding which is wider than my usual preferred 2.25" binding (2.5" wide binding gives me more poof in the front and obscures the ditch somewhat, in my opinion. I also used a contrasting thread color, and sew in a cave so I couldn't see the ditch. And it's a placemat, not a special piece. Haha. Anyway, I set my machine stitch length to 3 and use my walking foot.

Close up of the front of the finished piece:

Close up of the back:

Full placemat front and back:

Also a view of my "ish quilting" - 1/4"ish, straightish, good enough.

Adding a Zipper Pocket to The Everyday Hipster Bag

If you are interested in adding an inset zipper pocket to the exterior back or interior of your Everyday Hipster Bag (pattern available here), here are the pocket dimensions. I am not going to do a full tutorial on how to make an interior zipper pocket as there are so many out there. I really like this tutorial from U-Handbag.

Note: I didn't take the time to properly center my zipper pocket or place it lower than the top edge of the bag - take the time to do that.

Materials Needed:

6" zipper or longer

(2) 6" squares of fabric for the pockets

(1) interfacing for one main panel

(1) 6" square of interfacing

(1) 2" x 6" rectangle of interfacing

Interfacing:
1. Add interfacing to the wrong side of the main pocket panel that you will be using to install the zipper pocket. This will help support the weight of the zip pocket.
2. Add 6" square of interfacing to the wrong side of one pocket panel (it will be the front of the zipper pocket and less visible)
3. Add 2" x 6" rectangle of interfacing to the top back of the zipper pocket for additional stability.

Zipper placement:
1. Draw rectangle for zipper placement on the back of the interfaced square.
Start 1" down from the top and 3/4" in on each side.
Your rectangle will be 1/2" tall with a line in the center and notches to trim.

Pocket panel attachment (see linked tutorial above for good pictures of this step):
1. Center pocket panel with drawn rectangle on main panel
I lined my pocket panel with the top of the main panel, but it is really best to reduce bulk and drop the pocket 1/2"-1" from the top (don't slap your zipper pocket together like I did)
2. Pin in place and stitch around the perimeter of the rectangle you drew.
3. Cut the center line you drew inside your rectangle and snip the notches with scissors. Be very careful to cut close to the corners, but do not cut your stitches.
4. Pull attached pocket panel through through the opening you made.
5. Press well, rolling lining to the lining side.

Install zipper:
1. Put zipper behind the opening - I like to use Wonder Tape to hold it in place.
2. Topstitch around perimeter of your opening to secure your zipper.
3. Trim excess zipper tape.

Attach second zipper pocket panel:
Attach the pocket panels together with right sides together.
Stitch around entire perimeter of the pocket panels with 1/4" seam allowance
Make sure to move the main panel out of the way as you stitch the pocket panels.

And now you have a pocket for your bag. (This one works really well even though it is off center. Oh well, it's for me anyway.)

The Everyday Hipster Bag Pattern Available Now

I've been buried in house organization for the past several months and it has taken a hit to my creative energy, but I'm back to more sewing and less organizing. To be honest, it's starting to look like I didn't do much organizing which leads me to believe that it's a full time job around here. But either way, I am back to a creative place and have several ideas in the works.

First up, I have a new bag pattern available to purchase called The Everyday Hipster. You can find it on Payhip and Etsy. I've had so much fun making this bag for everyone. While I love a big structured bag as much as the next person, I really like a small, super lightweight crossbody bag for traveling and events, or those times when I just don't feel like keeping track of a purse.

The Everyday Hipster is just the right size to hold a small wallet, phone (fits my iPhone 6 with plenty of room to spare), and keys. Constructed with a simple Velcro flap closure and exterior slip pocket, this pattern is a great start for novice bag makers. No zippers! You can easily add a zip pocket to the exterior or interior (blog post to follow with pocket dimensions) or swap out the Velcro for a snap. If you use a heavier weight fabric, no interfacing is needed and the bag can be whipped up in under an hour.

Pattern instructions include a child length strap, so this bag is perfect for all ages. I think I will make a bunch as party favors for my daughter's next birthday party.

Approximate Dimensions:

6" W x 1" D x 7" H

Adult Handle Drop 22"

Children's Handle Drop 18"

I've been fortunate to have a great bunch of testers, some people made multiple bags. Take a peek at Instagram #everydayhipsterbag  to see bags. 

Ellyn of Ellyn's Place, made three bags! Ellyn is my favorite tester; she always give valuable feedback, she is so fast, and as a pattern writer and prolific maker she has a great eye. Check out Ellyn's post with pics of all the bags she made. 

Photo courtesy of Ellyn's Place.

Debbie, from Happy Little Cottage, also tested the Everyday Hipster and her version is so cute. She added a pocket to the front flap, patchwork, and mason jar thread sketching. Check out her blog post with details. 

Photo courtesy of Happy Little Cottage.

I've loved seeing all of the fabulous bags made by testers:

Photo courtesy of @twinssquared.

Photo courtesy of @sewologist.

Photo courtesy of Belloquacity.

Photos courtesy of @hollowglen. 

Photo courtesy of @roseandodin.

Photo courtesy of @elletaylor7

Various versions of the Everyday Hipster Bags I have made:

And a child size version for E:

Diamond Star EPP Quilt

After just under a year of stitching (and maybe a month of inactivity) E's diamond star quilt is done, washed and crinkly. So many stitches, so many fussy cuts. Additional in progress photos can be found in my previous blog post here. 

Quilt details

Hand pieced using English Paper Piecing method

54" x 72" after washing (will ultimately go on a daybed)

99.5 blocks consisting of (12) 2" diamonds = 1,194 diamonds

Diamonds cut using acrylic cutting template from Paper Pieces

Borders to even out edges

Backing: Lecien Flower Sugar pink floral

Binding: Vintage Picnic 108" wide navy bias gingham 

Diamonds pieced as follows

-95 full blocks

-4 blocks pieced in halves (one half block is attached at top of quilt and one half block is attached at bottom of quilt)

-1/2 block

Template papers

Purchase at www.paperpieces.com

Alternatively, here are links to cut your own papers. I print on 110 weight cardstock at 100%.

Diamonds:

Incompetech

Print with minimum border of .25" and block size of 2" with black outline

Borders:

I made my own papers and cutting template as very few were needed for this project. I've attached the PDF below for others to use. Cut fabric larger than the paper template, with 1/4" or 3/8" seam allowance all around. 

For outer corners, cut paper in half - you only need two half border pieces.

Border template

Love the look of this quilt, but want to machine piece it? 

Check out Vintage Carousel quilt pattern by Stitch Mischief. It's a good one!

Border details:

Tiny Scrappy Circle Mini Quilt Tutorial

A couple of years ago my daughter made some round fabric covered magnets with my scraps. Sometimes I have a hard time letting go of little odd scraps of beloved fabric, so for part of my "leave no fabric scrap behind" project this year, I decided to clean out some small and cut sections of scraps by making an applique circle mini using the same cutting method that we used for the scraps. It's a bit of an odd method, but it worked out well, and it was a great on-the-go and TV project.

Quilt Details

(676) 3/4" fabric circles
20 3/8" square of Essex linen in flax
(2) binding - WOF strips Bonnie and Camille Miss Kate scallops
22" square of backing fabric
22" square of batting
Elmer's glue to baste circles

Cutting the Circles

I used a 3/4' magnet I bought at a craft store to trace the outline of the circle on the back of each scrap. Fussy cutting these little circles is so addictive! Both large and small scale fabrics work well to highlight different details; one fabric print cut in different areas can look completely different.

Tip: Press and starch the fabric well prior to cutting to help the fabric hold its shape during cutting and gluing.

To hold the fabric in place to trace, I set the fabric on my metal IKEA tray, and laid the magnet on top. This help keep the fabric from shifting around. I then used my favorite little Singer scissors and carefully scissor cut the circles. My circles aren't all perfectly round, but they worked in the end.

Adhering the circles to the background

I thought 20" finished would be a good size for a mini or a big sofa pillow. I intended to cut my background fabric 20 1/2" square, but somehow I cut it a smidge smaller at 20 3/8". I'd love to tell you it is because I subconsciously knew this would work better, but it was serendipity because it worked perfectly for laying my circles side by side.

I cleared a spot on my table just like I would if I were going to work on a big puzzle, and laid the background fabric on it. I used a Clover Hera Marker  to score a perimeter line 1/2" from the edge of the background fabric to guide placement of the circles.

The trickiest part was figuring out the best way to attach these without spending a year on it. In the end, I decided that a mini quilt hanging on the wall won't be handled a lot, so I just used Elmer's glue to temporarily baste them to the background. I used a very thin layer Elmer's from a bottle spread across the back - try not to use so much that it soaks through the front of the fabric. I tried a couple using a glue stick and that was not the best method because it pulled on the bias edges of the circle, and also frayed the edges of the circles.

For projects that will get a lot of use - it is probably a good idea to use a product like Heat n Bond Lite to fuse each circle on. I thought I would use it, but the idea of tracing and cutting 1,676 Heat n Bond circles made me sad.

Starting in the lower left hand corner of the background fabric, I laid one circle touching both the side and bottom Hera lines. I then added circles along the bottom row, each side of the circle just barely touching each other, and the bottom of the circles touching the bottom Hera line. Once I figured out that the placement work perfectly, I glued each circle before laying it down and smoothed it in place gently with my fingers.

I continued to work horizontally and sometimes vertically, gluing and placing until all the space was filled, choosing fabric as I went. I worked over the course of several days, little bits at a time when I had a few minutes.

If you look closely, you can see the Hera lines in the photos below.

Quilting

To permanently adhere the circles to the background, I just quilted it densely - one line in the center of each circle, and lines 1/4" left and right of center, going both directions.

After quilting, I trimmed the edge edge of the quilt to 3/8" from the edge of the circles. Two WOF of strips works perfectly to bind the mini.

I hope this helps anyone who would like to use up some teeny scraps!